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THE YOUNG CROOK'S GUIDE

OR

SELF-VARYING SYSTEM

FOR

CUTTING GARMENTS

BY WILLIAM SCHWEINHART,

AT

YORK SULPHUR SPRINGS, PA,

GETTYSBURG

PRINTED BY H. C. NEINSTEDT

1851.

'atered according to Act of Congress, May 12th, 1851, by William Schweinhabt, in the Clerk's
Office of the District Court of the Eastern District of Pennsylvania.

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PREFACE,

This System is based upon a combined principle, embracing a division of the
shoulder measure for the one part, and actual measurement for the other : those
combined form a self-varying system, and is so simply arranged that any person
may easily understand it.

This, as well as all other systems, require the measures to be correctly taken,
and correctly applied.

PREPARATION f OR MEASURING.
i request your customer to button his coat, and stand in his natural position- Then
mark as follows : first mark on the neck the heighth you wish your coat to come, then
depth o! scye, then the most hollow part at waist, then the extreme length of waist,
then the arm at hip.

MEASURES AS THEY ARE TAKEN.
First commence by placing the end of your tape on the mark on neck, and measure
down to second mark the depth of scye 7 inches ; continue to the mark at hollow part
oi waist 17 inches-, continue to next mark the extreme length of waist 20 inches; con-
tinue the full length of coat 37 inches. Then take your shoulder measure, by placing
the end of your tape on the mark on neck and continue round in front of scye to the
same mark, 27 inches ; then without moving the end of your tape take the length of
lapel, 251 inches, and the length to the hip 21 inches, and the balance measure round in
front of scye to the mark at hollow of waist, 251 inches ; then take the width of back
7 inches; then the length of sleeve to elbow 21 inches; continue the full length of sleeve
32 inches; then the circumference of shoulder joint (or scye) 16 inches; then the elbow
14 inches ; then the wrist 8 inches ; then the hand 9 inches ; then the breast 36 inches ;
then the waist 30 inches.

Digitized by the Internet Archive
in 2011 with funding from
The Library of Congress

http://www.archive.org/details/youngcrooksguideOOschw

COPY OF THE MEASURES.
7, 17, 20, 37; 27, 25J, 21, 25$; 7, 21, 32, 16, 14, 8, 9, 30, 30.

BACK, NO. 1.

First line A, is the edge of cloth, mark at the top of cloth, then draw line B, and C,
then from 1 to 6 is 7 inches, the depth of scye ; then from 1 to 7 is 17 inches ; from 1
to 8 is 20 inches ; from 1 to 9 is 37 inches, the full length of coat. Then proceed with
the scale from 1 to 2 is the ]-6 of scale, from 1 to 3 is 1-12 ; then square lines D, E, F,
and G, by line B, — then from 2 to 4 is 1-4, from 2 to 5 is 7 inches, the full width of
Back. Then form shoulder, side-seam and skirt, as fancy may dictate.

FOREPART, NO. 2.

Square lines A and B, then proceed with the scale from 1 to 2 is 1-12; from 1 to 3 is
1-8; from 1 to 4 is the whole length of scale; from 4 to 5 is 1-16. Then square lines
C, D, E, and F, by line A, then from 4 to 6 is 1-32; from 6 to 7 is 1-6. Then square
line G by line F, then from 8 to 9 is 1-6 and 1 inch more for width of breast ; then place
your upper point of side-seam of back to 6 on line E, and wherever the back crosses line
F, there is your pivot No. 1. Then place your other back, the upper shoulder point to
the junction of lines B and G, at the same time let the point 4 on line D on back strike
line D on forepart; then form your scye and shoulder-seam. Then apply your shoulder.
measure from 10 round in front of scye to 11; then apply your shoulder joint (or scye)
measure from 15 to 16, which will establish the lower shoulder point correctly. Then apply
your lapel measure from 10 to 12, your hip measure from 10 to 13, your balance mea-
sure from 10 to 14; then sweep curve H by placing your finger on pivot No. 2; then
place your finger on your back on pivot No. 1, and draw in your back till the nick in
your back at the hollow part of waist strikes curve H ; then form your side-seam, breast
and neck-gorge ; then draw line I as represented ; then form the cut-off at waist by add-
ing one inch for spring on each side of line I — at the waist the side-body is then pricked
off on paper, and traced and cut by the pattern so pricked off.

SKIRT, NO. 3.

Draw line A, 1 inch in from the edge of cloth ; then square line B by line A ; then
apply the scale from 1 to 2 is 1-16, from 1 to 3 is the whole length of scale. Then draw
line C from 2 to 3 ; then form curve D ; then apply the width of forepart at waist along
lines Cand D, from 4 to 5; then add as much for fullness as you see fit; then form your
skirt as fancy may dictate.

SLEEVE, NO. 4.

Square lines A and B ; then apply your scale from 1 to 2 is 1-6 ; then square line C by
line A, then from 2 to 3 is 1-12. Make 3 your pivot and sweep your sleeve-head ; then
add 1 inch to the sleeve-head in front for fullness. Then apply your measure from the
back seam to elbow point 4 ; continue to 5 the full length of sleeve ; then from 4 to 6 is
1-6 of scale, from 6 to 7 is 1-24. Then form your sleeve as fancy may dictate.

The under side sleeve is formed by the upper one as represented.

COLLARS, NO. 5 & 7.
First square lines A and B ; then from 1 to 2 is 11 inches, from 1 to 3 is 2 3-4 inches,
from 3 to 4 is 2 1-4 inches. Then draw line C, and form collar as fancy may dictate.
Collar No. 5, has a snip in. No. 7 is drafted the same as No. 5, with one exception —
the end of the collar is square, and in width to correspond with the lapel.

FROCK SKIRT, NO. 6.

First square lines A and B ; then from 1 to 2 is 1-4 of the scale, from 2 to 3 is 1- 16 ;
then draw line C from 1 to 4, striking point 3 ; then draw line D, and form skirt according
to fancy.

ENVELOPE OR OVER GARMENT.

The measures for this garment are taken the same as for a dress coat, with one excep-
tion, and that is the throat, breast, and waist measures which are taken over the coat, and
there is 1 inch added to the shoulder, balance and scye measures ; so in place of selecting
a scale of 27 inches, you select one of 28 inches.

BACK OF ENVELOPE, NO. 8.

Line A is the edge of cloth ; then draw lines B and C; then from 1 to 6 is 7 inches,
from 1 to 7 is 17 inches, from 1 to 8 is 20 inches, from 1 to 9 is 38 inches. Then apply
the scale from 1 to 2 is 1-6, from 1 to 3 is 1-12. Then square lines D, E, F and G, line
D by line B, and lines E, F and G by line A ; then from 2 to 4 is 1-4 of the scale, from
2 to 5 is the full width of back 7 1-2 inches, from 10 to 11 is 1-12 of the scale; then
form your back as represented.

FOREPART OF ENVELOPE, NO. 9.

Line A is the edge of cloth ; square line B by line A, then apply your scale from 1 to
2 is 1-12, from 1 to 3 is the whole length of scale, from 3 to 4 is 1-16. Then square
lines C, D and E by line A ; then from 3 to 5 is 1-24, from 3 to 6 is 1-8, from 3 to 7 is
1-6. Then square line F by line D; then square lines G and II by line E; then apply
the upper point of side-seam of back to line F at point 8 ; then place the upper shoulder
point of the other back to the junction of lines H and B, letting the point 4 on line D
on back strike line C on forepart; then form shoulder and scye seams, at the same time
form your neckgorge ; then apply your throat measure ; then form forepart according to
fancy.

SLEEVE OF ENVELOPE, NO. 10,

Is drafted the same as No. 4, with the exception of the bottom, the upper part is round-
ed and the under part is hollowed, as represented ; width at hand made to suit the cus-
tomer.

COLLAR OF ENVELOPE, NO. 11,

Is drafted the same as Nos. 5 and 7, with the exception that the collar is wider, both
the stand-up and also the fall-down. The width of collar corresponds with the width of
lapel.

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PANTALOOJNS.

First ascertain how high your customer wishes his pants, then proceed — if to be worn
without suspenders commence 1 1-2 inches above the hip joints, continue down to knee
26 inches, whole length 43 inches, circumference of waist 29 inches, hip 36 inches, knee
15 inches, length of in-seam 31 1-2 inches.

COPY OF THE MEASURES.

26, 43, 29, 36, 15, 31 1-2.

PANTALOONS, NO. 12.

Line A is the edge of cloth ; square line B by line A — from 1 to 2 is the length to the
knee 26 inches, from 1 to 3 is 43 inches, the whole length of pants ; then square lines
D and E by line A; then from 3 to 4 is two inches ; then draw line F, then from 4 to 5
is 5 1-2 inches from 6 to 7 is half of the knee measure and add as much more for width
as you wish; then apply your in-seam measure from point 5 on line E, to wherever it
comes ; then square line C by line A to strike the mark made by the in-seam measure,
then from 8 to 9 is 1-4 of the hip measure; then square line G by line C, from 8 to 10
is 1-3 of the hip measure and 1-2 inch more ; then form forepart as represented.

BACK PART, NO. 13.

The back-part is drafted as represented ; line A is the edge of cloth — then place the
forepart on the cloth as represented, then from 6 to 7 is 1 1-2 inches ; then draw line B,
C, D, and E, then line F, then from 10 to 11 is the full width you wish your pants at the
knee ; then draw line G, then from 8 to 9 is 1 inch, then from 1 to 2 is 1 1-2 inches ;
then apply the half of your waist measure from 3 to 4, continue to 5, adding 1 inch for
seams ; then draw line G, then form back-part as represented.

MEASURES TAKEN FOR A VEST.

First the length you wish your roll 13 inches, continue the full length of vest 25 inches,
then the circumference of the breast 36 inches, then the waist 30 inches.

13, 25, 36, 30.

FOREPART OF VEST, NO. 14.

Line A is the edge of goods — measure in from line A 1-4 of the breast measure, then
draw line B parallel with line A, then from 1 to 2 is the whole length of vest, from 2 to
3 is the 1-12 of the breast measure ; then sweep curve C by placing your chalk on 3,
your finger on 1 ; then from 4 to 5 is from 3-4 to 1 3-4 inches, according to the size of
your customer, from 5 to 6 is 1-8 of the breast measure, from 3 to 7 is 1-4, from 8 to 9
is 1-12 ; then square line D and E, D by line B, and C by line D ; then draw line F,
then form forepart as fancy may dictate.

BACK OF VEST, NO. 15.

Line A is the edge of goods — from 5 to 6 is the 1-4 of the breast measure ; draw line
B parallel with line A ; square line C by line A, from 1 to 2 is the distance from 6 to 10
on forepart; then square line D, from 1 to 3 is 1-12, from 1 to 4 is 1-12; then square
lines E and F by line A, from 3 to 8 is 1-8 ; then draw line G, from 6 to 7 is 1 1-2 inches;
then apply the half of your waist measure, at the same time adding 1 1-2 inches for full-
ness ; then form back as represented.

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